First Bush state dinner chance to show change: ; Event to spotlight difference over how Clinton hosted

WASHINGTON - Plans have been in the works since April.Invitations went out six weeks ago. The flowers - buckets andbuckets of them - started arriving last week, and aides to firstlady Laura Bush have been losing sleep since.

In the countdown to President Bush's first state dinner, only thecook has taken it easy.

White House chef Walter Scheib III, a seven-year veteran withdozens of successful state dinners to his credit, is on vacationuntil Tuesday - a scant 24 hours before Washington society takes themeasure of its new premier host and hostess.

"That's one confident chef," Noelia Rodriguez, Laura Bush's presssecretary, said with a nervous laugh.

Although most details remain a secret, Wednesday's black-tiedinner for Mexican President Vicente Fox and his new bride, Martha,promises a return to the more sober diplomatic entertaining of WhiteHouses long past.

Forget Hillary Clinton and her outfits - trendsetting Vera Wangsor clingy Donna Karans. Laura Bush will wear a gown of reliable,Republican red made by her mother-in-law's couturier, Arnold Scaasi,said an aide to the New York-based designer. She had her finalfitting Friday.

Gone, too, are the days when President Clinton would throw a tenton the South Lawn - or, believe it or not, on the roof of the WestWing - to treat overflow state-dinner crowds to concerts by thelikes of Stevie Wonder and Elton John, while celebrities such asBarbra Streisand and Tom Hanks lit up the dance floor.

Recalling those occasions with a bit of a sniff, Bush presssecretary Ari Fleischer summed up in two words what the societypages can expect Wednesday night: "More stately."

The Bushes have selected an opera singer to perform in the EastRoom and will seat just 136 people to four courses in the StateDining Room. The intimacy of the event and the novelty of it beingBush's first make it an especially hot ticket.

Tour de France cycling champ Lance Armstrong scored one. So didRick Perry, who was handed the Texas governor's seat after Bush leftfor the White House. Cuban-American singer Gloria Estefan and LosAngeles Mayor James Hahn were among the half-dozen invitees whorelayed their regrets, citing scheduling.

For weeks, White House congressional liaison Nicholas Calio andhis staff fielded calls from lawmakers looking for an invitation.Fewer than a dozen made the cut, including House Speaker DennisHastert, House Democratic Leader Dick Gephardt, Senate MajorityLeader Tom Daschle and Senate Republican leader Trent Lott.

Others were offered consolation prizes, such as a spot atWednesday morning's South Lawn arrival ceremony for the Foxes, or aState Department lunch with Fox and Secretary of State Colin Powell.

Republican Rep. Henry Bonilla, whose Texas district shares an 800-mile border with Mexico, will be at the state dinner. His wife,Deborah, has been reading about past state dinners so they have anidea of what to expect at their first.

Bonilla said he will bring to the table his interest inimmigration reform and the Mexican economy, but he does not expectanything more substantive than "an exchange of business cards" overthe bone china.

Besides, he is hoping to be seated beside Armstrong so the twoTexas Longhorn fans can talk college football.

What else they will be chewing on remains a secret.

In July, Scheib prepared several small "tasting" parties for theBushes and friends. All that Rodriguez, the first lady'sspokeswoman, would say about the winning menu is that it does notreflect the president's preference for Tex-Mex. "No fajitas," shesaid.

"And, no pinatas," Rodriguez added. Laura Bush chose subtle,understated colors for the decor.

Getting everything ready is an undertaking not unlike precision-timed military maneuvers.

The hardiest blooms for the dozen table centerpieces arrived bytruck on Thursday. The rest, deemed unlikely to last the weekend,are to arrive Tuesday. Green plants for the lobby near the coatcheck are the National Park Service's responsibility.

Two dozens cases of fruit were coming to the White House kitchen.A team of calligraphers is working on place cards and menus for thedinner tables.

The crowded to-do list has awakened an anxious Rodriguez in themiddle of the night.

The president and first lady are keeping tabs on the particulars,she said. "They really want to ensure that their guests have amemorable evening."